Mourchon tradition red is Jancis's wine of the week

So pleased to see the UK’s most famous wine critic Jancis Robinson has made our very own ( host property for our wine tours) Domaine de Mourchon’s classic red wine - appellation Cotes du Rhone Villages - their ‘Tradition’ 2018 her ‘Wine of the Week’. With literally milions of wines she could choose from this is really a tremendous accolade - congratulations to Sebastian Magnouac winemaker and Kate McKinley the owner. I urge you to go sample this wonderful wine - try The Wine Society or Mr Wheeler in the UK.

So pleased to announce: our tours resume soon!!

Really excited that after a Covid enforced rest we are resuming our tours in October/early November. Our new base is the magnificent C18th ‘Mas’ at Domaine de Mourchon, a first-class Cotes du Rhone Villages wine estate that our regular clients will know well. NB: Stop Press - their ‘Tradition’ red cuvee has just been voted ‘wine of the week’ by famous UK critic Jancis Robinson (27/8/21).

The accommodation couldn’t be classier- recently renovated bedrooms, a ‘to die for’ classic Provencal kitchen/dining area, choice of terraces for those all-important aperos, a pool, and gardens surrounded by vine ( this is, after all, a wine estate); olive trees ( we use oil from their own harvest); and the stunning Dentelles hills with views up to Mont Ventoux and down to the valley below. Seguret the nearest viilage, just a few minutes down the track is officially one of France’s most beautiful villages.

Our autumn 2021 program is already full, sorry, but check out our 2022 schedule:

Availability 2022

Enquire for possible other dates

April

27th - 30th

May

4th - 7th

11th - 14th

June/July/August

Sold Out

September

28th - 1st(Oct)

October

5th - 8th

12th - 15th


Saint Jean du Barroux GFV news

gimelnewcave.jpg

Just received an update from Philippe Gimel re his GFV ( a means of expanding his vineyard holding by subsription) in which we have become small investors…the land deal is done, the paperwork is in process ..and the vineyards are remarkably healthy ( as PG says vine just dont care about our human health problems!)

 

Dear friends, 

Hope you’re doing well and this Covid situation has not impacted you too much. 

Here, it was almost « business as usual », since yeast, vines and weeds don’t care about our health pro-blems. March to the end of July is always the busiest period with the harvest, so we haven’t stopped working for months. 

We were not confined since our activity cannot stop but just had to fill up documents each time we were heading to the vineyard or were visiting clients, suppliers. 

Three Spanish guys, who already worked during the last harvest were back in March and April to weed the vineyards. We have so many plants, trees, terraces, it’s so great for biodiversity but it is also so de-manding and hard work by hand to create enough space around vines to let them grow. 

They did an amazing job and thanks to them and despite this Covid problem, the vineyard has maybe never been so well maintained. 

They couldn’t work in Spain because of the situation so they were happy to stay here and work. They’ll be back for the harvest with a larger team, plus want to come back next year to weed once again, that’s very good for us! 

In the winery, in addition to the daily work, we have been bottling Source 2018 and Syrah 2018, plus we have started working on the blend of the new Pierre Noire 2017. 

Works of the new cellar and my flat have also improved a lot, we are almost done and it will be my great pleasure to show you this as soon as it will be possible. 

I was renting those vines since 2013 so I had the priority but only if I was buying everything by myself. The possibility for our GFV Usclades-Gippières to buy was not sure at all. 

But I’ve shown the administration that this vineyard was crucial for the existence of Saint Jean du Barroux, so they have accepted our file. 

Then it has been a very long work for the lawyer to register all the inves-tors plus issuing all the needed documents. And finally, everything is fine. 

I’m still waiting for official documents. After the signature, the administra-tion needs to register them. I’ll send you them when arrived, they will be the official proof that you are owners. 

I want to thank you very sincerely. 

Thanks to your investment, you have made that Saint Jean du Barroux’s story can keep going on, and is even stronger now. 

It will be such a great pleasure to meet up and celebrate this all toge-ther as soon as it will become possible. 

As you know the tradition with a GFV is to gather the investors once a year for the general assem-bly. It’s the occasion, for the accountant, to present the balance, to meet each other, to give your bottles, and of course, to share some good time with a tasting and a lunch. 

Because of Covid, other domains which have a GFV have postponed or cancelled this meeting for 2020. 

For us at Saint Jean du Barroux, the initial idea was to schedule this day on June 13th. But without knowing when the purchase will be signed, and whether or not, such a meeting would be al-lowed, I haven’t talked about it, it’s quite a big organisation. 

We’ll talk about it once again depending on how the situation is evolving in France and across Europe. 

But of course, you are very welcome visiting us if you pass by Provence. Your bottles for 2020 are already reserved and are waiting for you. 

So let’s keep in touch, and for sure quite soon, when official documents will have come back from the administration. 

Thanks again and welcome in the little world of Saint Jean du Barroux. 

 

And last but not least, with the end of the lock-down in France, we have received the greatest news we were waiting for months: it’s done, the purchase of the vineyard is finally achieved! 

Lawyer’s offices were closed during the confine-ment, we should have signed on mid-March, so, unfortunately, the signature was postponed. 

I’m sorry for not having updated you more often but I didn’t have much more news during the process since last November. 

We have an administration in France, called Sa-fer, in charge of controlling the French soil. A la-wyer cannot sell without its agreement because Safer has the power to buy. 

They have been very slow to answer plus they have to ask the city hall of Le Barroux and neigh-bours whether or not some of them were inte-rested in buying, this is the legal procedure. Then they study the different demands and tell who will buy. They also have the power to split a vi-neyard in case several farmers are interested. 

Wine Spectator rates highly some favourite CDPs

IMG_2284.jpg

Great to see the latest Wine Spectator (May 31) giving such high ratings to some of my favourite CDPs, notably Domaine de la Solitude: their legacy cuvée “Vin de la Solitude” 2017 scores 96, my special occasion CDP the Cuvée Cornelia Constanza 2017 scores 95 as does the 2016 vintage of Cuvée Secret. Cuvée Barberini 2017 ( rouge) scores a very respectable 94. Well done Florent and the team! Looking forward to having some of these in our cellar…

Rosé time: my first guest column for TGLF....

Rosé wine | The taste of summer in France

Written by Guest writer in Wine and Drinks

You would have to be a tea-teetotaller not to have noticed the explosion in popularity of rosé wines in recent years, they are everywhere. Exports of Provence rosés, the main production area in France,  to their largest customer, the USA, have increased 10 fold in just over 7 years. As soon as the sun stars to shine, it seems that only a glass of the pink stuff fits the mood.

Rosé is the  favourite summer drink of Provence

It wasn’t always this way. For many years outside of France, the fact that French rosés had a long tradition of excellence and were well worth exploring seemed to have missed most people. Rosé in France is popular with everyone, including the serious winemakers of great red wine in Provence.

IMG_1275.jpg

“Do you mix red and white wine together to make rose?” I’ve been asked. Sacre bleu! No! At least not here in France where the practice is strictly illegal. It is associated with only the cheapest inferior rosés. Strangely the only appellation that does permit such a practice is Champagne. A proportion of wines are made by blending finished white Champagne with 15% still red wine from Pinot Noir grapes. But the principal method is time honoured and arguably leads to a much finer end product. Red grapes are lightly crushed and held in contact with the skins for just sufficient time to obtain the pink colouring. Thereafter it is made as if a white wine – this is called the “direct press” method.

Far and away the style of rosé that is driving all the growth is the light refreshing pale salmon coloured Provence rosé style. The big brands in the US are Whispering Angel and the Brad and Angelina owned Miraval. These are delicious wines that I call perfect “deck chair” rosés, light, refreshing and fun.

A rosé for true fans

But for the true rosé fan there is an altogether difference experience available – the Tavel wines from the Rhone valley. Tavel rosé, located on the right bank of the Rhone near the city of Avignon, is the granddaddy of French rosé. It’s the first appellation dedicated to the colour, and the only one that exists today purely for rosé. The style is rich, full bodied, strong in alcohol for a rosé, sometimes even 15.0% as per a big red. It has a darker pink colour that verges on the amber – achieved with a longer skin contact time. The palate is packed full of red summer fruits , think summer pudding, but in a glass.

This is what the French call a “gourmand” wine. They mean a wine for the table (not the deck chair!). It works brilliantly with spicy foods, tagines, couscous or even a curry.

La vie en rosé – it’s the taste of summer in France…

Wine expert Philip Reddaway runs Rhone Wine Holidays, tours which take you under the skin of the legendary wine produce area of Provence.

"Five Reasons to Visit Provence": a guest post from author and magazine editor Janine Marsh who loves our area

The lavender fields of the Abbaye de Senanques

The lavender fields of the Abbaye de Senanques

I’m not sure that there’s a place more heavenly on earth than Provence. A land of aromatic lavender fields, hilltop villages, olive groves and vineyards. And, there’s definitely not much that beats relaxing at a café sipping a glass of locally produced wine, watching the world go by. 

If you need more reasons to visit this sun-kissed southern French paradise – here are 5 that are hard to resist…

Avignon

The awesome facade of the Palais des Papes, Avignon

The awesome facade of the Palais des Papes, Avignon

Avignon, the capital of Vaucluse in Provence, is famous for its giant Gothic Palace of the Popes. In the shadow of this monumental building, take a break at the Carré du Palais, one of the most elegant wine bars in the city, as well as a gastronomic restaurant. It’s located in a former 18th century mansion and the courtyard overlooks the Palace, perfect to enjoy a glass or two from a superb list of Rhone Valley wines. Buy a tasting card with a refillable glass and sip some of the most delicious rosés, whites and reds with guidance from the onsite sommeliers.

Dance on the Pont d’Avignon like in the famous nursery rhyme. Grab a basket full of delicious cheese and a baguette from the local market, Marché les Halles. Then enjoy a picnic in the beautiful Rocher des Doms garden, next to the Palace of the Popes and overlooking the Rhone river. 

Gigondas 

The Pretty Streets of Gigondas village

The Pretty Streets of Gigondas village

Take the pace down a notch and head to Gigondas via Carpentras and Sorgues, both worth a stop off. It’s a tiny village nestling amongst lush terraced vineyards which produce some of the finest red wines of Provence. With a backdrop of the rocky mountain ridges of the Dentelles de Montmirail, wander the cobbled streets and ogle the beautiful ancient stone buildings. Don’t miss a visit to the Lencieux Chocolate shop (2126 Chemin de Lencieu) and indulge in handmade chocolates that taste like heaven. 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

the view from the ruin of the Pope’s summer home

the view from the ruin of the Pope’s summer home

A visit to arguably the most famous wine producing area of Provence, is an absolute must. Literally meaning “the Pope’s new castle”, in the 14th century it was the location of the summer residence of the Popes of Avignon. All that remains of it are the magnificent ruins with breath-taking views over the mountains and countryside. However the popes left another legacy. They planted the town’s first vineyards. 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the very first French wine appellation - created in 1936. 

A tranquil, picture-postcard-pretty and friendly little town with cosy cafés, mouth-watering restaurants and sun-baked cobbled streets. There’s also a museum in the town dedicated to the wine-making profession including tastings! 

Vacqueyras

Vacqueyras, in the heart of the Vaucluse is famous for its wines but not that well known to tourists. The village is surrounded by protective walls and has some wonderful old buildings, some of which date back to the 12th century. There are castle remains from the 16th century, revamped in the 18th century. The little streets in the old village are shaded from the almost year round sun by plane trees and the whole place gives off a feeling that life has largely not changed for many years. It’s a tiny town but packs a big wine punch with terraced, rocky vineyards and some of the best wine estates in France. 

Beaumes-de-Venise

Not far away, yet another giant of great Provence wines, Beaumes-de-Venise is at the foot of the southern slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The ‘beaumes’ refers to prehistoric caves set into the hillside, some of which you can visit. The village is picturesque. Flower-filled streets wind their way to the ruins of a 12th century feudal castle. Art galleries, boutiques, cafés and wine stores galore tempt the visitor to linger and drink in the ambience of this beautiful, famous wine town. 

Truly irresistible Provence. 

Janine Marsh is the editor of https://www.thegoodlifefrance.com/ and author of My Good Life in France and My Four Seasons in France

A Lockdown message to all our clients and prospective clients

Hello from Jude and I

We trust everyone is doing OK in the current very trying crisis - we are both doing just fine, as are our family - hunkering down, enjoying some family bonding time and looking forward to resuming our tour business when the crisis eases up- our tour schedule is definitely on course for September onward. Please check out our availabilty page for the dates. We can promise you an EXCELLENT experience at our base in Chateauneuf du Pape - great wineries and tastings, stylish accommodation, great cooking from Jude and top notch Rhone wines from our cellar. Hope to have some of you with us! Stay safe…

P1040685.jpg

Wine Spectator CNP picks vs our network

In this recent copy of Wine Spectator, their Rhone correspondent James Molesworth picks his top Chateauneufs of the 2017 vintage - 23 different estates- of these 10 are in ( or have been ) part of the network of wineries we take our guests to in Cheateuenuf du Pape. When you consider there are more than 250 producers in the appellation , it suggests my selections are pretty “hot” , or just that James and I share the same tastes!

image.jpg

La Table de Sorgues still rocks!

IMG_1525.jpg

Couple of nights ago Jude and I visited celebrated ( top TA restaurant in the area) La Table de Sorgues in the Avignon suburb of Sorgues right next to Chateauneuf du Pape. We wanted to check out whether new owners Stephane ( chef) and Stephanie ( front of house), from Strasbourg, were maintaining standards. Pleased to report: absolutely, full marks - the ambience may have been a little low key but, come on, a cold Thursday night in January? - most restaurants in the area are firmly closed for the annual congé right now through lack of custom. We both had the ceviche of scallops with pomegranate and lime ( a wow dish) and Jude a roast cod, me a venison in a ceps sauce for mains - superb “à point” cooking and pleasantly correct/simple presentation. The cheese course comes to the table on a trolley ( love the theatre), great selection with the addition of quince jelly and a truffle infused honey. To go with a Viognier from the Sabon family at Janasse , a long time favourite of ours. With great service, all in all: Bravo! A go to restaurant for our Chateauneuf based ( 10 minutes away) Rhone Wine Tours this year.

IMG_1528.jpg

Mature and delightful

IMG_1523-2.jpg

The Mourvedre contributes to some of the greatest wines of the Southern Rhone - Beaucastel’s magnificent Homage a Jacques Perrin for instance. But usually in a blend adding power , endurance and fabulous savoury notes to Grenache and Syrah. But its at Bandol , at least here in France, that the grape is found In its pure form. The estate Domainr de Pibarnon is amongst the greatest expressions of Mourvedre. Bandol wines have a reputation for aging longer than practically any wine from the South, the uber high tannin levels supporting a life long into the 4th decade or longer for the best wines- at dinner this week ( many thanks Muriel) we were treated to a test of this theory - the 1988 vintage of Pibarnon , holding up very well, no loss at all of colour, stupendous figgy pudding aromas and layered savoury and provencal herb notes on the palate. Great experience!

Rhone wines went down well at Flora's wedding

IMG_1167.jpg

Great feedback from guests at Flora’s wedding last weekend for my two selections: the white - an old favourite from Chateau Saint-Cosme, their “les Deux Albions” IGP ( with Picpoul in the blend the winning little extra); and the red? - a great “ over the motorway” pure Grenache old vine Cotes du Rhone from CDP estate Cristia. I had to hold back due to father of the bride speaking duties but more then made up for it later in the evening!

The Swedes in action in the Rhone valley

Touring yesterday with Swedes from Stockholm- lots of late vendange action and a fabulous haul of wine bought by my guests that nearly grounded the van! Visits to Chateau Vaudieu ( wonderful new “tulip” concrete fermentation cuves); Mourchon ( as ever with Kate on great form); with Fred Chastan at Jaufrette where stocks of the wonderful 2009 Gigondas are still going strong : and finally with Marilou Vacheron at Clos du Caillou- always a great pleasure.

IMG_1006.jpg
IMG_1027.jpg
IMG_1035.jpg

Touring during the vendange this week...

IMG_0982.jpg

Touring with returnees from Toronto this week - many delights - a fabulous fish lunch at Clos du Caveau with Henri Bungener; great tastings at Chteauneuf du Pape estates Grand Tinel , Solitude and Fortia ; always a great pleasure to catch up with the affable Daniel Stehelin at Mont Thabor - he left me in charge of the barrel tastings ( see pic) whilst he went to supervise the picking team; plus a visit to Domaine Alary at Cairanne - a remarkable line up of wines demonstrating just why this appellation so deserved its elevation to Cru status; final night dinner included a Versino CDP “Felix” 2012 - memorable!

The last Nalys Eicelencie white Chateauneuf du Pape

Yes I mean the very LAST….last in my cellar and the last obtainable as the new Guigal regime ( they purchased Nalys two years ago) have decided not to run with Eicelenci in future. A shame!…always one of my favourite white CDPs from an estate that took their whites just as seriously as their reds. Enjoyed this last bottle last night with friends, along side a Chicken & apricot tagine and a selection of goat’s cheeses and figs from the garden.

IMG_0966.jpg

2019 Rhone harvest impacted by drought

IMG_0937.jpg

Touring this week and talking to many vignerons its clear that the extreme high temperatures we experienced in this area back in July - not far away in the Gard a record high temperature of C44 was recorded - coupled with the pitiful amount of rain that has fallen has resulted in many vines failing to produce as many grapes and are smaller with less juice than normal. Estimates of lost production vary according to the terroir, micro-climate and degree of drainage/water supply from the soil but many are reporting up to 30% loss. Nothing wrong with the quality though!